Ribbon Candy Hat

Ribbon Candy Hat
People have been requesting a hat pattern that matches the Ribbon Candy Stocking. If you decide to make this hat in other than holiday colors (think brights, pastels or earth tones), it can be worn all winter long. With four sizes offered here, you can make one for everyone!

Pattern Price: $4.50

RCHATall

RCHATpinkpurple

RCHatlarge






Thank you for purchasing my pattern. After your payment is processed, the pattern will be sent to you via email attachment within 24 hours, and most likely lots sooner. If for any reason you find an error (horrors!!) or have a question about it, please leave me a comment or hit the contact button up there on the right and I'll help. Happy Holidays!
If you're on Ravelry, you can get this even sooner by buying this pattern in my Ravelry shop. Just click the "Ravelry Designer" thingie up near the top right of this page and get the immediate .pdf download through Ravelry :)


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The Violet Dahlia

True to my promise to myself, I made a popular knitting design that I found on Ravelry. I'm actually going to make two of these, and this is the first one. The pattern is called Dahlia. The coolest part about this pattern is that the designer is a teenage girl. Isn't that incredible? This is one of the first times in my life that I made the garment in a color similar to the original, but that's just because it's the color my daughter chose for it. This was some of the yarn I bought from Knitting Warehouse during my most recent online S.E.X. (get your mind out of the gutter; that means Stash Enhancement Expedition!!!) session.

Dahliasmile

I know that using Caron Simply Soft for a major garment may seem cheap and ridiculous to some people, but you have to keep in mind that this is for a teenager who may someday move out (one can hope, right??) and who may one day do her own laundry (I'm a hell of a daydreamer) without my supervision. Whatever I make for other people must be washable, dryable and affordable for a prolific knitter such as myself to make for him/her. Once again, my aspirations to ever become a yarn snob are taking a back seat to my inherent thrift. The Violet Dahlia was finished when my daughter got home from school yesterday, and she squealed and put it on immediately. She could not have been any happier had I made it out of 100% cashmere.
...

Okay, that might be a lie. She might have been happier in that case.

If you're looking at the original pattern and then at my version, you'll see that at the request of my daughter I "depoofed" the sleeves and replaced the picot edging with four rows of 1 x 1 ribbing:

Dahliasleeveneck

The next one is going to be magenta :))

The next project I'm going to complete will be the Ribbed Lace Bolero, of which I will also be making two, if not three. This is going to be in black. I've started the first one and am using Lion Brand Vanna's Choice yarn. This is the first time I've ever tried this yarn. For an acrylic, it's not bad. No squeaking to speak of (okay, I do realize that my low threshold for yarny goodness is showing again). I'm a little put off by the fatness of this supposed worsted-weight yarn. It seems more like an aran weight to me. Never in a million years would I substitute this for a worsted weight yarn in a pattern in which gauge is terribly crucial without making a very careful gauge swatch. I'm not a big huge fan of swatching (who is???) but diving into any project with this yarn without making one is a prescription for disappointment and possible impulsive impaling of someone/something with a knitting needle when you begin to seethe with rage. This bolero will be for my other daughter. The Violet Dahlia daughter also wants the exact same thing in the same color, depending on her critique of how Ribbed Lace Bolero #1 comes out.

A while back I made a black Scrunchable Scarf. The other day when the temperature plummeted to 60 degrees one of my kids wore it to school. This prompted a request for one exactly like it from one of her friends, and that scarf will be next in the queue. You know, that's one dark purple top followed by three black things. I better intersperse that lineup with something made with some yarn in a lighter color. Most of my knitting is done in the evening, and my aging eyes and black yarn don't get along so well under those circumstances. I find myself more and more often needing to knit with dark yarns in natural daylight. Hmmm. Hmmm. My friend just started a new job, and her office is chilly. She has asked if I would make her some fingerless gloves, so I'll make a pair of those. I have two skeins of ONline Supersocke Beach Colors that I don't want to really use to make socks because there is a high cotton content. I didn't realize that when I bought it, and I think that yarn would be perfect for some stripy fingerless gloves to wear in Florida, don't you? Not too hot, and the cotton content is less dangerous when you don't have to worry about socks falling down, right?

That's a lot of knitting projects lined up, isn't it? I'm hoping to write and post another pattern this month, as well. Bring on the Red Bull.

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Purdy Purdy Socks

So, I did finish those socks, and here's the proof:

Onlinecitysocks1

Wonderful, mindless, self-striping, socky goodness. These are mental health socks. Knitting these was like going on vacation. Who invented self-striping sock yarn? It's done with computers, right? Whatever...it's genius. It makes me grateful to be living in this day and age. We've come so far since we bought yarn in the grocery store. Don't believe me? It's true--it was right next to the sneakers in the olden days. Yes--you could buy SNEAKERS (not skateboard shoes, not running shoes, not tennis shoes, not basketball shoes, sigh) the same place you could buy food, including white sugar. We didn't even wear bike helmets to ride there, either, and lived to tell about it and grow up to knit purdy socks with super-cool-computer-generated-self-striping-superwash-even-though-it's-actual-wool yarn.

Oh, I almost forgot; they match:

Onlinecitysocksmatching

They aren't different lengths; that's a positional thing or a camera thing or the person wearing them didn't pull them on evenly. You know why these pictures were taken indoors instead of out in the yard in the light of the lovely Florida sun like some of my other stuff? Because I think the neighbors are starting to talk. I might be turning into the neighborhood Crazy Lady. Well...they do see me out in the yard taking photographs of socks and stuff; for instance, Christmas stockings stuck to the sides of palm trees. Then they catch glimpses of me walking around the neighborhood with my mp3 player, giggling to myself as I listen to my podcasts. Oh my God--what if they can't see that I'm using earbuds??? What if all they see is this nutty chick walking along in the wrong sneakers not intended for walking but for maybe jogging or running (God forbid!), laughing her head off all alone walking around the streets? Could this be the reason I never get trick-or-treaters???? Naaaaaaaaaaaaaaah... ;))


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Ribbon Candy Stocking

RIBBON CANDY STOCKING

Pattern Price: $5.00

Swirling stripes of red, green and cream reminiscent of festive holiday candy adorn this stocking. The hanging loop is knit in.


RCS2RCstockoutside

RCScloseupRCSribloop

Thank you for purchasing my pattern. After your payment is processed, the pattern will be sent to you via email attachment within 24 hours, and most likely lots sooner. If for any reason you find an error (horrors!!) or have a question about it, please leave me a comment or hit the contact button up there on the right and I'll help. Happy Holidays!

If you're on Ravelry, you can get this even sooner by buying this pattern in my Ravelry shop. Just click the "Ravelry Designer" thingie up near the top right of this page and get the immediate .pdf download through Ravelry :)


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Chili Weather

An actual cold snap has come to Florida! The temperature plummeted to 53 degrees this morning. I almost had to close the windows!

A day like this is the kind that makes you want to wear socks--handknit socks of COURSE--and dash into the kitchen to get a nice hot pot of chili going. If I were still in the northeast, I'd say, "Today is a good day to make stew." I ought to bake something, too! I'm having the kind of morning I love: I'm wearing sweatpants, which is something I can only do a couple of times per year here in the Sweaty State; I had time to listen to an episode of She-Knits this morning; and I've started a new pair of socks, similar to the Laziest Socks Ever, but I think this yarn is so gorgeous:

pvsocks002

I'm still crazy about self-striping sock yarn. Has it lost its appeal for you? I bought this about a year ago from Little Knits (My God what good sales they have!!! hurrygobuysomeyarntheresaidthesubliminalvoiceinyourhead). It's On Line Supersocke in one of the City colorways. It's superwash. So far, I have refused to make socks out of any yarn that has to be hand-washed. It just doesn't seem practical to me. Knowing me, I'd accidentally throw them in the washer and dryer and felt them to death. Then I'd have to cry, and I don't want to do that. Anyway, this is just a "plain vanilla" sock. No pattern, nothing exciting. Cast on 64 stitches, then turn your brain off till you look down and you're holding a finished sock. Rinse and repeat. The fun part is seeing the various color patterns emerge. I have one worry: While winding this ball, I found a knot. Yeah. A Dreaded Knot. You know what that means with self-striping yarn, right? The color sequence is going to be messed up right there. I'll have to briefly turn my brain back on at that point, to make sure I can make the correct color striping sequence continue. Unlike The Laziest Socks Ever, I'm going to try to make this pair match.

I have a new Christmas stocking blocking on the dining room table. I have to put the finishing touches on the pattern and take pictures, and then I'm going to show you that in the next few days. I was chomping at the bit to finish it because I have received this:

stashinbox

I bet you can't guess what's in there!!!!
Oh, you guessed yarn...am I really that transparent?

I haven't allowed myself to open that box yet. It's still sealed, in my closet. I put in an order at Knitting Warehouse, which is a great online place to buy yarn. I always go there when I am getting Lion Brand or Caron or Bernat yarns. They don't carry a ton of brands, but they have flat-rate shipping of $5.99 and they are always 100% accurate and incredibly fast. This is my first real yarn purchase since the Great Knitting Slump ended. It contains yarn to make some of the stuff that's in my unrealistically long Ravelry queue. I've optimistically planned to make five sweaters, among other things. I'll have to elaborate on that in another post. I also bought some of the new sock yarn from Red Heart, called Heart and Sole. You have to buy two skeins to make a pair of socks, but a skein is only $4.69 which appeals to my cheap side. Once again, I'm sadly reminded that I'll never be a yarn snob no matter how much I plan to start being one.

Well, enough prattling on! I have to get back outside in my fleece jacket/socks/sweatpants before it gets back up to 80 degrees.

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Sparkling Sleigh Bells Stocking

Here's the solution to that holiday sparkly acrylic you bought on sale last year after the holidays were over :) Ho Ho Ho!!!


SPARKLING SLEIGH BELLS STOCKING

This is a generously-sized stocking to hold lots of goodies


sparkling SB candle

Stocking

Size 7 16-inch circular needle

Size 7 double-pointed needles, set of four

Stitch Marker

Various holiday-themed craft charms and/or alphabet beads to make recipient’s name, and/or jingle bells

Small craft ring (wood or metal), holiday-themed ribbon, or metallic cord suitable for making hanging loop of your choice. Instructions for knitted hanger (not pictured) included.

Finished Size: Approximately 8 inches wide x 20 inches long

Yarn:

Red Heart Holiday, 3 skeins in colors A, B and C of your choice (Any worsted-weight yarn can be used). For stocking pictured, the following yarns were used:

A: Cream (Aran/Gold) 1 skein 3.5 oz/100 g/*251 yds/230 m

B: Red/Green variegated (Victorian/Gold) 1 skein 3.5 oz/100 g/ *214 yds/196 m

C: Green (Green/Silver) 1 skein 3.5 oz/100 g/ *251 yds/230 m

Gauge: Not crucial. Per label:

20 stitches/28 rows = 4 inches/10 cm in stockinette stitch using size 7 needles

*Color B (Victorian/Gold) as above contains less yardage than A or C.

NOTE: When changing colors, pick up new color under strand of old color to avoid holes.

With A, cast 72 stitches onto 16-inch needle, place marker and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist stitches.

Round 1: *(K2, P2) around.

Round 2: Knit.

Rounds 3-12: Repeat rounds 1 and 2 five times.

Do not cut color A; join color B.

Rounds 13-19: With B, knit.

Round 20: With A, knit.

Do not cut Color B; join color C.

Rounds 21-27: With C, knit.

Round 28: With A, knit.

Rounds 29-76: Repeat rounds 13-28 three more times. Cut B and C.

Heel Setup Rows

Row 1: With A, K 18, turn.

Row 2: P 36, turn. Leave remaining 36 (instep) stitches on stitch holder (or on one needle if using double-pointed needles).

Modified Band Heel

Row 1: *Slip 1, K 1. Repeat across.
Row 2: Slip 1, P to end.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 three more times, ending by purling a row.

Begin turning heel:

Rows 1, 3, 5, 7: *Slip 1, K 1. Repeat across.

Row 2: Slip 1, P 10, P2tog, P 10, P2tog, P 11.

Row 4: Slip 1, P9, P2tog, P 10, P2tog, P10.
Row 6: Slip 1, P8, P2tog, P 10, P2tog, P9.

Row 8: Slip 1, P 7, P2tog, P 10, P2tog, P8.

28 stitches on the needle.

Row 9: Repeat Row 1.

Row 10: Slip 1, P 6, P2tog, P 10, P2tog.Turn.

Row 11: (Slip 1, K1) 6 times. Turn.

Row 12: Slip 1, P 10, P2tog. Turn.

Row 13: (Slip 1, K1) 5 times. Slip 1, K2tog. Turn.

Repeat rows 12 and 13 until all of the edge stitches on each side of the center 12 stitches have been consumed, ending with K2tog. There are 12 stitches on the needle. Turn.

Last row: Slip 1, P5. Turn. Place marker for beginning of round (center back heel). You will now begin to work in rounds again.

Foot

Round 1: Join color B. With B, K6. Pick up and knit 12 stitches evenly in the chain stitches along side of heel flap. Knit 36 instep stitches. Pick up and knit 12 stitches evenly in the chain stitches along the second side of heel flap. K6. Total of 72 stitches.

Rounds 2-7: With B, knit.

Round 8: With A, knit.

Rounds 9-15: Join Color C. With C, knit.

Round 16: With A, knit.

Rounds 17-46: Repeat rounds 13-28 (as in beginning of leg pattern above) twice. Cut B and C.

Toe

Note: Switch to double-pointed needles when too few stitches remain to continue using circular needle.

With color A:

Round 1: *K6, K2tog. Repeat around.

Round 2: Knit around.

Round 3: *K5, K2 tog. Repeat around.

Round 4: Knit around.

Round 5: *K4, K2tog. Repeat around.

Rounds 6: Knit around.

Round 7: *K3, K2tog. Repeat around.

Rounds 8: Knit around.

Round 9: *K2, K2tog. Repeat around.

Round 10: Knit around.

Round 11: *K1, K2tog. Repeat around.

Round 12: Knit around.

Round 13: *K2 tog. Repeat around. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail.

Finishing: Thread a tapestry needle with the yarn tail and run through remaining stitches twice. Pull tightly, then through to wrong side. Weave in ends. **Block.

Attach hanging loop and assorted charms/beads of your choice.

Hanging Loop: With color A and double-pointed needles, cast on 24 stitches, divide evenly among 3 needles, and place marker for beginning of round. Working in rounds, knit rounds 1 and 2 as for cuff four times. Bind off. Sew hanging loop firmly to cuff of stocking in desired position.

Finishing:

Adorn stocking with the holiday-themed craft charms of your choice.

**According to the instructions given by the yarn manufacturer



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Holiday Flurries Stocking

Tis the season to make Christmas stockings!! I'm not making any guarantees, but I have a strong hunch that if you make this one for anyone, they might think twice before giving you fruitcake. Again.

HOLIDAY FLURRIES STOCKING
Price: $5.00


HF 3


Okay, I know we don't have snow in Florida, but...

Holiday Flurries 2

Thank you for purchasing my pattern. After your payment is processed, the pattern will be sent to you via email attachment within 24 hours, and most likely lots sooner. If for any reason you find an error (horrors!!) or have a question about it, please leave me a comment or hit the contact button up there on the right and I'll help. Happy Holidays!

If you're on Ravelry, you can get this even sooner by buying this pattern in my Ravelry shop. Just click the "Ravelry Designer" thingie up near the top right of this page and get the immediate .pdf download through Ravelry :)



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No Peeking! ! Well, Okay...a Little Peek

Hey! Remember this?

Red Heart Holiday

I'm making you something, just like I promised!! Ho Ho HO!!!! I'll give it to you tomorrow or the next day. Want me to give you a hint?

RHHballs

Quit trying to scroll to the left and peek. Don't even TELL me you didn't just try that. Those strands of yarn definitely lead to a WIP, as proven by the needle tips sticking out of it. See? SEE???

Are you excited? I'll show it to you tomorrow...night. Muahahahaha!!!

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Funky Acrylic and Buyer's Remorse

It happens every year, doesn't it? You can admit it; it's just us here now. You've knit for six months for Christmas/Hanukkah/Kwanzaa and the holidays have finally come...and GONE. You resolve to lose weight, exercise more, and go on a yarn diet, too. Riiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiight.

One day last January while out and about, Determined to Not Buy Yarn, I bought this:

Red Heart Holiday

It was a sale. A SALE, okay? Immediate buyer's remorse set in. I was helpless against the force field of good yardage and the sale.I stashed it away, thinking I'd probably never use it, or would give it to a school for craft projects, maybe. It's kind of unwearable. It's scratchy to begin with, and then the addition of that gold or silver glitter-laden thread wrapping around the strand just makes it feel like steel wool.

I took it all out the other day and stared at it. I didn't even buy two skeins alike. Sigh. Did you do this, too? I'm working on a pattern we can knit to put some of this to good use. If you bought out the whole shelf of this last January, or something similar, don't lose hope. Come back in a few days, and maybe I'll have posted a free pattern that will help you justify that old purchase and sleep a little better. Plus, if you use up some of this yarn that's been taking up valuable stash space for almost a year, you know what that means, right? More stash space. Riiiiiiiiiight!!!!!

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The Blue and Orange Monstrosity, Revealed

As God is my witness, I shall never crochet with navy and orange again in my life. You know how many miles of it passed through my hands to make this??

LBHS whole thing



That's probably a lie; I no doubt WILL crochet with navy and orange again in my life. I have two kids attending the same high school with the same hideous-beyond-belief school colors, and only one of them has a school blankie....errr....do the math. Let's just say I'll be taking an orange and blue hiatus for a while--at least till my sight returns to quasi-normal. This afghan is for my oldest daughter.

So the name of the school has the letters "LBHS." She's in the class of 2010, is into music, and I....you know.... I heart her. Of COURSE I heart her!


LBHS flat

You can do this yourself. Get giant gobs of acrylic (gotta be washable! and cheap!) in your kid's school colors, graph out the letters and numbers you want, add in a few squares that apply personally to YOUR kid, and there you go. I made four strips 40 stitches wide with 5 squares each 40 rows high, per strip. Also, I carried the color not in use inside of the row so it sort of peeks through. In other words, in a square that's predominantly navy, the orange yarn is running all through each row, and vice versa. This makes it thicker and warmer. I used a size J hook because of this. I didn't want it to be stiff like wood. After all, an afghan should be kinda bendy, right? She's going to cover up with it, not surf on it.

I almost forgot to tell you about the most important part, and why it tortured me! You already know from a few posts ago that this has taken a ridiculously long time to make. What I didn't mention was that on the final strip, the one with the "2"/"CLASS OF"/"L" is that I made a horrible, insane mistake. I finished the entire strip only to realize I made it in the WRONG COLORS. Yeah. Everything that was blue should have been orange, and vice versa.

Okay. Okay. Okay. Breathe. Okay.

I maaaaaay or may NOT have uttered several swear words when I discovered it. All I really remember is the slight pinprick from the needle when they gave me the sedative, and someone saying something about removing all the knives from the house...;)



So there you have it: The Blue and Orange Monstrosity in all of it's cheapo acrylic glory.

LBHSontile


OH!!!! Speaking of cheapo acrylic, I have something I'll have to remember to show you tomorrow. For now, I have to just bask in the fact that I'll probably never touch this afghan again. Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah!!!!

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Laziest. Socks. Ever.

So one day last fall I was at a local flea market; it's an indoor venue with tons of essentially permanent booths set up by local vendors who sell their stuff on weekends. I was browsing around and found one that was an actual...yarn shop. You see, the lady who owned it had just closed her brick and mortar LYS. It was a store I'd always meant to stop by, but I never did get around to it, what with being a lazy procrastinator and all that. I was delighted to find her in the flea market, and I bought two skeins of S.R. Kertzer On Your Toes . I cast on the first sock pretty much right away and got past the heel and well into the foot when The Great Knitting Slump of 2007-08 AND Premature Second Sock Syndrome struck simultaneously. At that point, the unfinished sock, the ball of yarn and my size 2 DPNs went to live in my knitting basket.

Fast forward 11 months.

Picture 048


Voila!!

In keeping with maintaining my laziness where these socks are concerned, I didn't even bother trying to make them look like they matched. Normally, with self-striping/patterning yarn, I attempt to start sock #2 at the same place in the color sequence so the socks come out looking exactly the same. But I didn't do it for the Laziest. Socks. Ever. Did you notice they're also sans any sort of interesting stitch pattern whatsoever, too? Ultra-lazy. Yeah--and I didn't bother blocking them, either. However, I did have so much yarn left over that immediately upon grafting the toe of sock #2, I cast on and immediately finished these:

Picture 052

to attempt to assuage my guilt over taking almost a year to make one pair of socks, never mind The Unfinished Blue and Orange Monstrosity that has also been a UFO for almost a year.

By the way, I just finished that at midnight last night. Pictures coming soon! Probably not a year from now! :)

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Nearing the Crochet Finish Line

If you've been following this blog, you've heard me refer to The Great Knitting Slump of 2007-2008. I've had an epiphany where that's concerned!

I know (partially, at least) what killed my knitting mojo. First, you need to know that I generally have three projects going at once: One knit project that's kind of time-consuming; one knit project that gives nearly instant gratification like this; (you won't be able to see the link for this cool hat unless you're on Ravelry) and one crochet project. Now don't go running away right off the bat if you're a purist knitter and I've just used the "C" word! Keep an open mind, now :)

Anyway, I digress. A little over a year ago, I promised my daughter I would crochet her a specific something. There were a couple of problems. I had to design it myself, which I like, but it wasn't really something I felt terribly enthused about. Mind you--I WANTED to want to do it, see? But I really sorta didn't. I got as far as designing it and even making all my color charts. I bought the yarn. Actually, that's pretty much where the kiss of death began. I didn't like the yarn. But I'm frugal; I'm thrifty (cheap cheap cheap) and needed a crapload of this yarn. Also, it had to be in two colors I happen to specifically kind of loathe. It was this and this.

I was able to start this project, but early on I got sick to death of it. I'm the type of person who feels sorry for my UFOs and feel disloyal if I really take on a new NEW project (beyond the 3 as above) with a lonely UFO sitting around, and I really couldn't go on with this big crochet project, so I stalled out.

I really think that deciding to get on Ravelry and listening to my favorite knitting podcasts again jump-started things. After not touching this thing for almost a year, I've now reached the home stretch! Woot! I'll show it to you in the next couple of days after I bribe the one person in the house who can take a decent picture to do so. Decent pictures are not my forte, as you can see by looking around here. That's a subject for a whole other day. See yas!

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I'm Missing Out

I've spent a lot of time knitting and crocheting in my life. Haven't you? Since the dawn of the internet, online patterns, Ravelry, etc., the knitting world is at my fingertips, in its entirety! Hello? Dream come true!!!

However, with all the browsing, surfing, dreaming and drooling I do on a daily basis, I haven't made very many of the "wildfire" knits, as Jenny and Nicole on Stash and Burn call them. I'm talking about those wildly popular patterns like Clapotis, Monkey Socks, Branching Out, Irish Hiking Scarf, Wicked, Baby Surprise Jacket,etc. I made the Einstein Coat, but I used a yarn I got on ebay that nobody else will ever use. I always...do things so unconventionally.

I wonder why that is? Those are great patterns, and like I say--wildly popular. I do spend a lot of time designing my own stuff, but I have to start making sure I have lots of free time for personal sit-back-and-relax knitting. I'm going to head over to Ravelry and start queuing up some good, popular, tried-and-true patterns so I can be like the cool kids :)

By they way, remember when I posted yesterday about being flabbergasted that there were 7 pages of activity on my designs on Ravelry? Now it's up to 16. I love you, Ravelry. =)

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Holy cow!!!

So let me tell you this! I waited way longer than most rabid knitters to get on Ravelry. I just got on it after the end of The Great Knitting Slump of 2007-2008, on September 18. A couple of years ago, like I mentioned earlier, I was writing patterns and selling patterns and all that. I took a few of those designs today and plunked them on Ravelry. My gosh!! Talk about being welcomed with open arms! If you aren't on Ravelry, get on it. That has to be the friendliest, warmest group of a quarter million strangers you'll ever come across.

I'm beyond flabbergasted. I've had patterns posted for only a few hours right now, and already there are 7 pages of "activity" on them, meaning people have favorited them, commented on them or queued them. I'm stunned, stunned, STUNNED. And happy! And flattered. If you're one of those people, and you're reading this post, then I like you and I thank you from the bottom of my heart :))
You guys are the coolest. Of course you are! You're knitters/crocheters, right? 'Nuff said. ;D

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Oh Lordy Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

So...it's October. You know what that means, right? Halloween candy!!!! Have you seen the Candy Corn Hershey Kisses?!

Good God. I just got some and put them in my clear glass pumpkin-shaped candy dish. Oh, soooo yummy. They taste like white chocolate to me.

Go get some right away.


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Claire Lace Shawl




"CLAIRE”


LACE SHAWL


Don’t be afraid of knitting lace. This is an excellent introduction to lace knitting. Can you believe it’s a simple four-row repeat?!


knitpicks submissions007 (2)

website photos batch 1016

Stitch Detail





Difficulty Level: Intermediate



Size: One size fits all. Finished measurements after blocking approximately 65 inches wide and 48 inches deep, not including border.



Materials: Laceweight yarn, 880 yards


(I used Knit Picks Shimmer in colorway Stained Glass, two 440-yard hanks)


Circular needle size 5, 29-inch or even longer. (Lots of border stitches!)



Gauge: 24 stitches x 32 rows = 4 inches. Gauge is not terribly crucial.



Cast on 3 st.


Row 1: K1, yo, K to end of row.


Row 2: K1, yo, K to end of row.


Row 3: K1, yo, K to end of row.


Row 4: K1, yo, K to end of row.


Row 5: K1, yo, K to end of row.


Row 6: K1, yo, K to end of row.


Row 7: K1, yo, K to end of row .


Row 8: K1, yo, K to end of row (11 stitches)



Row 9: K3 (border). K1,*(yo, K3, yo, K1) across to last 3 st.. End K3 (border)


Row 10: K3 (border). Purl across to last 3 st. K3.


Row 11: K3 (border). K1, *(K1, sl 1, K2 tog, psso, K2) across to last 3 stitches. K3.


Row 12: K1 (yo, K1) twice. Purl across to last 3 st. K1, (yo, K1) twice.



Repeat Rows 9-12 54 times. On last repeat, work Row 12 as follows:


K1, (yo, K1) twice. K across to last 3 st. K1, (yo, K1) twice.



Bind off as follows: (K2 tog. Place resulting stitch back on left needle.) across. One stitch remains on the needle. DO NOT CUT YARN



Border: Pick up border stitches all around shawl edge as follows:


In the one remaining stitch on the needle, work k,p,k,p,k. (5 stitches on needle) With right side facing and left slanted side of shawl at top, find holes along side where row 12 increases were made. Insert right needle through first hole and pick up working yarn, pulling it through to the right side. Place this stitch on left needle. In this stitch, k,p,k,p,k. (10 stitches on needle). Repeat this step in each hole along side edge, working k,p,k,p,k in each stitch picked up. In bottom point of shawl, pick up 1 stitch in center stitch of original cast-on stitches and work k,p,k,p,k into it. Repeat the process along the right side edge, picking up one last stitch at top edge and working k,p,k,p,k into it. Now all the border stitches have been picked up.


Row 1: Purl.


Row 2: (K2, yo, K1, yo, K2) across.


Row 3: Purl.


Row 4: (K3, yo, K1, yo, K3) across.


Row 5: Knit.


Row 6: (K4, yo, K1, yo, K4) across.


Row 7: Purl.


Row 8: (K5, yo, K1, yo, K5) across.


Row 9: Knit.


Row 10: (K6, yo, K1, yo, K6) across.


Row 11: Purl.


Row 12: (K7, yo, K1, yo, K7) across.


Row 13: Knit.


Row 14: (K8, yo, K1, yo, K8) across.


Row 15: Purl.


Row 16: (K9, yo, K1, yo, K9) across.


Row 17: Knit.


Row 18: (K10, yo, K1, yo, K10) across.


Row 19: Purl.


Row 20: (K11, yo, K1, yo, K11) across.


Row 21: Knit.


Row 22: (K12, yo, K1, yo, K12) across.


Row 23: Knit.



Bind off in same manner as noted above.



Block shawl to finished measurements, stretching well to open up lace pattern and pinning out border points.



This pattern is offered for personal, non-commercial use only. Items made from this pattern may not be sold without the express written consent of the author.
This pattern and the text and photos contained within, may not be copied or reproduced for any purpose other than personal use. Copyright 2008 Yvonne Senecal.

Despite the fact that I have comments enabled, in order to comment you need to actually click on the title of this (or any other) post. Sorry!



Amelia Lace Wrap

“Amelia”

Lace Wrap

There isn’t a purl stitch to be found in this entire wrap! If you want to create a lacy heirloom wrap with only knit stitches, this is the pattern for you.

chloe2


chloe3

website photos batch 1008
Stitch Detail

Size: One size fits all.

Finished measurements: Approximately 23 x 76 inches, after blocking.

Gauge: 20 stitches and 26 rows = 4 inches. Gauge is not terribly crucial.

Materials: 880 yards laceweight yarn. (I used Knit Picks 100% merino paint-your-own, one 100-gram hank, undyed.)

Size 10 knitting needles

Cast on 189 stitches.

Rows 1-15: Knit.

Row 16: K3 tog across row. 63 stitches.

Row 17: K3 (border). K1. (yo, K3, yo, K1) across to last three stitches. K3 (border).

Row 18: Knit.

Row 19: K3 (border). K1. (K1, slip 1, K 2 tog, psso, K2) across to last three stitches. K3 (border).

Row 20: K1 (yo, K1) twice. Knit across to last three stitches. K1. (yo, K1) twice.

Row 21: As Row 17.

Row 22: As Row 18.

Row 23: As Row 19.

Row 24: K1. (K2tog) twice. Knit across to last five stitches. (K2tog) twice. K1.

Repeat Rows 17-24, 41 more times.

Next Row: In each stitch across, knit in front, back, front of each stitch. 189 stitches.

Knit 15 rows.

Bind off LOOSELY.

Block shawl to finished measurements.

This pattern is offered for personal, non-commercial use only. Items made from this pattern may not be sold without the express written consent of the author.
This pattern and the text and photos contained within, may not be copied or reproduced for any purpose other than personal use. Copyright 2008 Yvonne Senecal.



Despite the fact that I have comments enabled, in order to comment you need to actually click on the title of this (or any other) post. Sorry!


Mighty Miters Handbag

MIGHTY MITERS HANDBAG

An attractive bag just large enough to hold your essentials

knitpicks submissions004 (2)

Size: Finished measurements are approximately 7 inches high x 11.5 inches wide at base , after felting.

Gauge: Not crucial

Materials: Approximately 400 yards fingering weight 100% wool yarn. (I used Knit Picks Memories, 2 hanks). Knitpicks has discontinued this particular yarn, but really you can make it out of any multicolored feltable (not superwash) wool you have, using the needles appropriate for your yarn, as gauge is not crucial on this bag. The finished bag would of course vary in size.

Size 5 knitting needles.

One spare knitting needle for 3-needle bind off.

One 1-inch button.

Two 7-inch metal craft rings (or different purse handles of your choice).

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Schematic

Square One:

Cast on 24 stitches.

Row 1: K 10, (K2tog) twice, K 10.

Row 2: Knit.

Row 3: K 9, (K2tog) twice, K 9.

Row 4: Knit.

Row 5: K8, (K2tog) twice, K 8.

Row 6: Knit.

Row 7: K7, (K2tog) twice, K 7.

Row 8: Knit.

Row 9: K6, (K2tog) twice, K6.

Row 10: Knit.

Row 11: K5, (K2tog) twice, K5.

Row 12: Knit.

Row 13: K4, (k2tog) twice, K4.

Row 14: Knit.

Row 15: K3, (K2tog) twice, K3.

Row 16: Knit.

Row 17: K2, (K2tog) twice, K2.

Row 18: Knit.

Row 19: K1, (K2tog) twice, K1.

Row 20: Knit.

Row 21: (K2tog) twice.

Row 22: Knit.

Row 23: K2tog.

Row 24: Knit 1.

Square Two:

Pick up and knit 11 stitches along side of square 1 (12 stitches on needle). Cast on 12 stitches (24 stitches on needle).

Repeat rows 1-24 as for first square.

Squares three and four: As for second square.

Square Five: Cast on 11 stitches (12 stitches on needle). Pick up and knit 12 stitches along side of Square Four. Complete Rows 1-24 as for first square.

Square Six: Pick up and knit 11 stitches along side of square five and 12 stitches along side of square three. Work Rows 1-24.

Square Seven: Pick up and knit 11 stitches along side of square six and 12 stitches along side of square two. Work Rows 1-24.

Square Eight: Pick up and knit 11 stitches along side of square seven and 12 stitches along side of square one. Work Rows 1-24.

Squares 9-28: Complete squares with method as above, picking up and casting on stitches as necessary according to order of schematic. At end of square 28, with one stitch left on needle, do not break yarn.

Side 1:

Turn work so that long side (7 squares) is on top. Pick up and knit 11 stitches along edge of first square, and pick up and knit 12 stitches in each remaining square across. 84 stitches on needle.

Row 1: Knit 45. Turn.

Row 2: Knit 6. Turn.

Row 3: Knit 9. Turn.

Row 4: Knit 12. Turn.

Row 5: Knit 15. Turn.

Row 6: Knit 18. Turn.

Row 7: Knit 21. Turn.

Row 8: Knit 24. Turn.

Row 9: Knit 27. Turn.

Row 10: Knit 30. Turn.

Row 11: Knit 33. Turn.

Row 12: Knit 36. Turn.

Row 13: Knit 39. Turn.

Row 14: Knit 42: Turn.

Row 15: Knit 45. Turn.

Row 16: Knit 48. Turn.

Row 17: Knit 51. Turn.

Row 18: Knit 54. Turn.

Row 19: Knit 57. Turn.

Row 20: Knit 60. Turn.

Row 21: Knit 63. Turn.

Row 22: Knit 66. Turn.

Row 23: Knit 69. Turn.

Row 24: Knit 72. Turn.

Row 25: Knit 75. Turn.

Row 26: Knit 78. Turn.

Row 27: Knit 81. Turn.

Row 28: Knit 84. Turn.

Row 29: Knit 42.

You now have 42 stitches on each needle. Arrange needles such that needle tips are parallel. Using spare needle, perform 3-needle bind off as follows: *(K the first stitch from each needle together as one) twice. Pass first of these resulting stitches over the second.* Repeat from * to * across until one stitch remains on right needle. Cut yarn, pull tail through stitch and fasten off.

Side 2:

Pick up 84 stitches along other long edge and complete as for first side.

Handle Tabs:

In top edge of bag, pick up and knit the center four stitches in edge of square closest to side of bag. Knit 16 rows. Bind off. Repeat three more times in squares at side edges (tabs will be on edge of squares 1, 5, 25 and 28).

Button Flap:

Pick up and knit 12 stitches in top center edge of bag, using the six centermost stitches of each of the two squares in the center of the top row of squares.

Knit 16 rows.

Row 17: K 4, bind off 4, Knit 4.

Row 18: K4, cast on 4, Knit 4. Buttonhole completed.

Rows 19-22: Knit.

Row 23: K2tog across. 6 stitches on needle.

Row 24: Knit.

Row 25: K 2 tog across. 3 stitches on needle.

Row 26: Knit.

Bind off.

Felt bag per your yarn instructions. Dry thoroughly.

Sew button on outside of bag to correspond with buttonhole in button flap.

Sew one craft ring to each side of bag, placing ring against ring tabs, folding ring tab over edge of ring, and sewing edge of ring tab to inside of bag.


This pattern is offered for personal, non-commercial use only. Items made from this pattern may not be sold without the express written consent of the author.
This pattern and the text and photos contained within, may not be copied or reproduced for any purpose other than personal use. Copyright 2008 Yvonne Senecal.

Despite the fact that I have comments enabled, in order to comment you need to actually click on the title of this (or any other) post. Sorry!

Flowers and Frills Shawl

FLOWERS AND FRILLS SHAWL

Try on some lace and make a fashion statement with this soft and lacy little shoulder shawl


alpacashawl002


alpacashawl003

Materials: Laceweight yarn, 440 yards (I used Knitpicks Alpaca Cloud)

Size 5 knitting needles

2 stitch markers

Size: Approximately 50 inches wide by 27 inches deep, including border.

Gauge: Approximately34 stitches x 40 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch, unblocked, but exact gauge really isn’t crucial.

Note: Beginning with row 2, slip first stitch of each row as if to purl. This is an important step, as this will create a clearly-visible edge of chain stitches you’ll use when you pick up the border stitches.

Abbreviations:

Psoy = Pass knit st on right needle over YO.

PM = place marker

SM = slip marker

K2tog = knit two together

YO = yarn over

Kfb = Knit in front and back of stitch

M1 = Make one stitch by lifting horizontal strand between needles. Place on left needle and knit into the back of it.

Cast on 2 stitches.

Row 1: Knit into front and back of each stitch. (4 st)

Row 2: Sl 1, K3.

Row 3: Sl1, (Kfb next st)twice; K1. (6st)

Row 4: Sl 1, K1, purl across to last 2 st, K2.

Row 5: Sl1, Kfb next st, K2, Kfb next st, K1. (8 st)

Row 6: Sl 1, K1, purl across to last 2 st. K2..

Row 7: Sl1, Kfb next st, K4, Kfb next st, K1. (10 st)

Row 8: Sl 1, K1, purl across to last 2 st. K 2.

Row 9: Sl1, Kfb next st, K6, Kfb next st, K1. (12 st)

Row 10: Sl1, K1, purl across to last 2 st. K2.

Row 11: Sl1, Kfb next st,, K8, Kfb next st,, K1. (14 st)

Row 12: Sl1, K1, purl across to last 2 st, K2.

Row 13: Sl1, Kfb next st, K10, Kfb next st, K1. (16 st)

Row 14: Sl1, K1, purl across to last 2 st,, K2.

Row 15: (right side)Sl1, Kfb next st. PM. Knit across to last 2 st.. PM. Kfb next st. K1. (3 stitches outside markers on each side)

Row 16: (wrong side)Sl 1, K1, P1. SM. Purl across to marker. SM. P1,K2.

Row 17: Sl1, Kfb next st. K1. SM. (K2 tog)twice. (Yo, K1)four times. (K2tog) twice. SM. K1. Kfb next st, K1. (4 stitches outside markers on each side)

Row 18: Sl 1, K1, P2.. SM. Purl across to marker. SM. P2, K2.

Row 19: Sl1, Kfb next st. K2. SM. Knit across to marker. SM. K2. Kfb next st, K1. (5 stitches outside markers on each side)

Row 20: Sl 1, K1, P3. SM. Purl across to marker. SM. P3, K2.

Row 21: Sl1, Kfb next st. K3. SM. (K2 tog)twice. (Yo, K1)four times. (K2tog) twice. SM. K3. Kfb next st, K1. (6 stitches outside markers on each side)

Row 22: Sl 1, K1, P4. SM. Purl across to marker. SM. P4, K2.

Row 23: Sl1, Kfb next st. K4. SM. Knit across to next marker. SM. K4. Kfb next st, K1. (7 stitches outside markers on each side)

Row 24: Sl 1, K1, P5. SM. Purl across to marker. SM. P5, K2.

Row25: Sl1, Kfb next st. K5. SM. (K2 tog)twice. (Yo, K1)four times. (K2tog) twice. SM. K5. Kfb next st, K1. (8 stitches outside markers on each side)

Row 26: Sl 1, K1, P6. Remove marker. Purl across to marker. Remove marker. P6, K2.

Row 27: (right side)Sl1, Kfb next st. PM. Knit across to last 2 st. PM. Kfb next st. K1. (3 stitches outside markers on each side)

Row 28: (wrong side)Sl 1, K1, P1. SM. Purl across to marker. SM. P1,K2.

Row 29: Sl1, Kfb next st. K1. SM. (K2 tog)twice. *(Yo, K1)four times. (K2tog) four times. * Repeat from * to * across to 4 st before marker. (K2tog) twice. SM. K1. Kfb next st, K1. (4 stitches outside markers on each side)

Row 30: Sl 1, K1, P2.. SM. Purl across to marker. SM. P2, K2.

Row 31: Sl1, Kfb next st. K2. SM. Knit across to marker. SM. K2. Kfb next st, K1. (5 stitches outside markers on each side)

Row 32: Sl 1, K1, P3. SM. Purl across to marker. SM. P3, K2.

Row 33: Sl1, Kfb next st. K3. SM. (K2 tog)twice. *(Yo, K1)four times. (K2tog) four times. * Repeat from * to * across to 4 st. before marker. (K2tog) twice. SM. K3. Kfb next st, K1. (6 stitches outside markers on each side)

Row 34: Sl 1, K1, P4. SM. Purl across to marker. SM. P4, K2.

Row 35: Sl1, Kfb next st. K4. SM. Knit across to next marker. SM. K4. Kfb next st, K1. (7 stitches outside markers on each side)

Row 36: Sl 1, K1, P5. SM. Purl across to marker. SM. P5, K2.

Row37: Sl1, Kfb next st. K5. SM. (K2 tog)twice. *(Yo, K1)four times. (K2tog) four times. * Repeat from * to * across to 4 st before marker. (K2tog) twice. SM. K5. Kfb next st, K1. (8 stitches outside markers on each side)

Row 38: Sl 1, K1, P6. Remove marker. Purl across to marker. Remove marker. P6, K2.


Repeat rows 27-38 eight more times, then rows 27-37 once more. You will now have 148 stitches total.

Last row: (wrong side) Knit across, removing markers.


Bind off as follows: (K2 tog. Place resulting stitch back on left needle) across. When just one stitch remains on needle, do not cut yarn.

Border: Turn shawl such that right side is facing and left side of shawl is up. All along this edge, you will see a line of “chains.” Pick up border stitches as follows: Insert needle in front loop of first “chain”, pick up a stitch and knit it. Insert needle in back loop of same “chain”, pick up a stitch and knit it. In this manner, pick up a total of 146 stitches along left edge. (147 stitches now on needle). Pick up stitches in same manner moving upward along right edge of shawl, and pick up and knit 146 stitches along right edge. (293 stitches on needle). NOTE: Do NOT pick up stitches in any other manner. Do not knit in front and back of each chain, for instance; do not pick up one stitch, yo, etc. If you pick up the border stitches any other way, the border will fall apart when you work the bind off/unravel row.

Note: Now, do not slip first stitch each row any longer.

Row 1: (wrong side) Purl.

Row 2: (right side)K146, M1, K1, M1, K 146. (295 stitches).

Row 3: Purl.

Row 4: Knit.

Row 5: Purl.

Row 6: Knit.

Row 7: Purl.

Row 8: Knit.

Row 9: Purl.

Row 10: Knit.

Row 11: Purl.

Row 12: Knit.

Row 13: Purl.

Row 14: Knit.

Row 15: (wrong side) KNIT.

Bind off as follows: *(K2 tog, place resulting stitch back on left needle) two times. K2 tog once more. Yo, psoy. Drop next st on left needle. Place st on right needle onto left needle.* Repeat from * to * across, ending with (K2 tog, place resulting stitch back on left needle) three times. Cut yarn and fasten off.

Here’s the magical fun part:

Where you dropped each st while working bind-off, unravel this stitch all the way down to the edge of the border.

Block shawl to finished measurements, pinning out scallops.


This pattern is offered for personal, non-commercial use only. Items made from this pattern may not be sold without the express written consent of the author.
This pattern and the text and photos contained within, may not be copied or reproduced for any purpose other than personal use. Copyright 2008 Yvonne Senecal.


Despite the fact that I have comments enabled, in order to comment you need to actually click on the title of this (or any other) post. Sorry!