Don’t be afraid of knitting lace. This is an excellent introduction to lace knitting. Can you believe it’s a simple four-row repeat?!
Stitch Detail
Difficulty Level: Intermediate
Size: One size fits all. Finished measurements after blocking approximately 65 inches wide and 48 inches deep, not including border.
Materials: Laceweight yarn, 880 yards
(I used Knit Picks Shimmer in colorway Stained Glass, two 440-yard hanks)
Circular needle size 5, 29-inch or even longer. (Lots of border stitches!)
Gauge:24 stitches x 32 rows = 4 inches. Gauge is not terribly crucial.
Cast on 3 st.
Row 1: K1, yo, K to end of row.
Row 2: K1, yo, K to end of row.
Row 3: K1, yo, K to end of row.
Row 4: K1, yo, K to end of row.
Row 5: K1, yo, K to end of row.
Row 6: K1, yo, K to end of row.
Row 7: K1, yo, K to end of row .
Row 8: K1, yo, K to end of row (11 stitches)
Row 9: K3 (border).K1,*(yo, K3, yo, K1) across to last 3 st.. End K3 (border)
Row 10: K3 (border). Purl across to last 3 st. K3.
Row 11: K3 (border). K1, *(K1, sl 1, K2 tog, psso, K2) across to last 3 stitches. K3.
Row 12: K1 (yo, K1) twice. Purl across to last 3 st. K1, (yo, K1) twice.
Repeat Rows 9-12 54 times. On last repeat, work Row 12 as follows:
K1, (yo, K1) twice. K across to last 3 st. K1, (yo, K1) twice.
Bind off as follows: (K2 tog. Place resulting stitch back on left needle.) across. One stitch remains on the needle. DO NOT CUT YARN
Border: Pick up border stitches allaround shawl edge as follows:
In the one remaining stitch on the needle,work k,p,k,p,k. (5 stitches on needle) With right side facing and left slanted side of shawl at top, find holes along sidewhere row 12 increases were made. Insert right needle through first hole and pick up working yarn, pulling it through to the right side. Place this stitch on left needle. In this stitch, k,p,k,p,k.(10 stitches on needle). Repeat this step in each hole along side edge, working k,p,k,p,k in each stitch picked up. In bottom point of shawl, pick up 1 stitch in center stitch of original cast-on stitches and work k,p,k,p,k into it. Repeat the process along the right side edge, picking up one last stitch at top edge and working k,p,k,p,k into it. Now all the border stitches have been picked up.
Row 1: Purl.
Row 2: (K2, yo, K1, yo, K2) across.
Row 3: Purl.
Row 4: (K3, yo, K1, yo, K3) across.
Row 5: Knit.
Row 6: (K4, yo, K1, yo, K4) across.
Row 7: Purl.
Row 8: (K5, yo, K1, yo, K5) across.
Row 9: Knit.
Row 10: (K6, yo, K1, yo, K6) across.
Row 11: Purl.
Row 12: (K7, yo, K1, yo, K7) across.
Row 13: Knit.
Row 14: (K8, yo, K1, yo, K8) across.
Row 15: Purl.
Row 16: (K9, yo, K1, yo, K9) across.
Row 17: Knit.
Row 18: (K10, yo, K1, yo, K10) across.
Row 19: Purl.
Row 20: (K11, yo, K1, yo, K11) across.
Row 21: Knit.
Row 22: (K12, yo, K1, yo, K12) across.
Row 23: Knit.
Bind off in same manner as noted above.
Block shawl to finished measurements, stretching well to open up lace pattern and pinning out border points.
This pattern is offered for personal, non-commercial use only. Items made from this pattern may not be sold without the express written consent of the author. This pattern and the text and photos contained within, may not be copied or reproduced for any purpose other than personal use. Copyright 2008 Yvonne Senecal.
Despite the fact that I have comments enabled, in order to comment you need to actually click on the title of this (or any other) post. Sorry!
There isn’t a purl stitch to be found in this entire wrap! If you want to create a lacy heirloom wrap with only knit stitches, this is the pattern for you.
Stitch Detail
Size: One size fits all.
Finished measurements:Approximately 23 x 76 inches, after blocking.
Gauge:20 stitches and 26 rows = 4 inches. Gauge is not terribly crucial.
Materials:880 yards laceweight yarn. (I used Knit Picks 100% merino paint-your-own, one 100-gram hank, undyed.)
Size 10 knitting needles
Cast on 189 stitches.
Rows 1-15: Knit.
Row 16:K3 tog across row. 63 stitches.
Row 17: K3 (border). K1. (yo, K3, yo, K1) across to last three stitches. K3 (border).
Row 18: Knit.
Row 19: K3 (border). K1. (K1, slip 1, K 2 tog, psso, K2) across to last three stitches. K3 (border).
Row 20: K1 (yo, K1) twice. Knit across to last three stitches. K1. (yo, K1) twice.
Row 21: As Row 17.
Row 22: As Row 18.
Row 23: As Row 19.
Row 24: K1. (K2tog) twice. Knit across to last five stitches. (K2tog) twice. K1.
Repeat Rows 17-24, 41 more times.
Next Row:In each stitch across, knit in front, back, front of each stitch. 189 stitches.
Knit 15 rows.
Bind offLOOSELY.
Block shawl to finished measurements.
This pattern is offered for personal, non-commercial use only. Items made from this pattern may not be sold without the express written consent of the author. This pattern and the text and photos contained within, may not be copied or reproduced for any purpose other than personal use. Copyright 2008 Yvonne Senecal.
Despite the fact that I have comments enabled, in order to comment you need to actually click on the title of this (or any other) post. Sorry!
An attractive bag just large enough to hold your essentials
Size: Finished measurements are approximately 7 inches high x 11.5 inches wide at base , after felting.
Gauge: Not crucial
Materials: Approximately 400 yards fingering weight 100% wool yarn. (I used Knit Picks Memories, 2 hanks).Knitpicks has discontinued this particular yarn, but really you can make it out of any multicolored feltable (not superwash) wool you have, using the needles appropriate for your yarn, as gauge is not crucial on this bag. The finished bag would of course vary in size.
Size 5 knitting needles.
One spare knitting needle for 3-needle bind off.
One 1-inch button.
Two 7-inch metal craft rings (or different purse handles of your choice).
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Schematic
Square One:
Cast on 24 stitches.
Row 1: K 10, (K2tog) twice, K 10.
Row 2: Knit.
Row 3: K 9, (K2tog) twice, K 9.
Row 4: Knit.
Row 5: K8, (K2tog) twice, K 8.
Row 6: Knit.
Row 7: K7, (K2tog) twice, K 7.
Row 8: Knit.
Row 9: K6, (K2tog) twice, K6.
Row 10: Knit.
Row 11: K5, (K2tog) twice, K5.
Row 12: Knit.
Row 13: K4, (k2tog) twice, K4.
Row 14: Knit.
Row 15: K3, (K2tog) twice, K3.
Row 16: Knit.
Row 17: K2, (K2tog) twice, K2.
Row 18: Knit.
Row 19: K1, (K2tog) twice, K1.
Row 20: Knit.
Row 21: (K2tog) twice.
Row 22: Knit.
Row 23: K2tog.
Row 24: Knit 1.
Square Two:
Pick up and knit 11 stitches along side of square 1 (12 stitches on needle). Cast on 12 stitches (24 stitches on needle).
Repeat rows 1-24 as for first square.
Squares three and four: As for second square.
Square Five: Cast on 11 stitches (12 stitches on needle). Pick up and knit 12 stitches along side of Square Four. Complete Rows 1-24 as for first square.
Square Six: Pick up and knit 11 stitches along side of square five and 12 stitches along side of square three. Work Rows 1-24.
Square Seven: Pick up and knit 11 stitches along side of square six and 12 stitches along side of square two. Work Rows 1-24.
Square Eight: Pick up and knit 11 stitches along side of square seven and 12 stitches along side of square one. Work Rows 1-24.
Squares 9-28: Complete squares with method as above, picking up and casting on stitches as necessary according to order of schematic. At end of square 28, with one stitch left on needle, do not break yarn.
Side 1:
Turn work so that long side (7 squares) is on top. Pick up and knit 11 stitches along edge of first square, and pick up and knit 12 stitches in each remaining square across. 84 stitches on needle.
Row 1: Knit 45. Turn.
Row 2: Knit 6. Turn.
Row 3: Knit 9. Turn.
Row 4: Knit 12. Turn.
Row 5: Knit 15. Turn.
Row 6: Knit 18. Turn.
Row 7: Knit 21. Turn.
Row 8: Knit 24. Turn.
Row 9: Knit 27. Turn.
Row 10: Knit 30. Turn.
Row 11: Knit 33. Turn.
Row 12: Knit 36. Turn.
Row 13: Knit 39. Turn.
Row 14: Knit 42: Turn.
Row 15: Knit 45. Turn.
Row 16: Knit 48. Turn.
Row 17: Knit 51. Turn.
Row 18: Knit 54. Turn.
Row 19: Knit 57. Turn.
Row 20: Knit 60. Turn.
Row 21: Knit 63. Turn.
Row 22: Knit 66. Turn.
Row 23: Knit 69. Turn.
Row 24: Knit 72. Turn.
Row 25: Knit 75. Turn.
Row 26: Knit 78. Turn.
Row 27: Knit 81. Turn.
Row 28: Knit 84. Turn.
Row 29: Knit 42.
You now have 42 stitches on each needle. Arrange needles such that needle tips are parallel. Using spare needle, perform 3-needle bind off as follows: *(K the first stitch from each needle together as one) twice. Pass first of these resulting stitches over the second.* Repeat from * to * across until one stitch remains on right needle. Cut yarn, pull tail through stitch and fasten off.
Side 2:
Pick up 84 stitches along other long edge and complete as for first side.
Handle Tabs:
In top edge of bag, pick up and knit the center four stitches in edge of square closest to side of bag. Knit 16 rows. Bind off. Repeat three more times in squaresat side edges (tabs will be on edge of squares 1, 5, 25 and 28).
Button Flap:
Pick up and knit 12 stitches in top center edge of bag,using the six centermost stitches of each of the two squares in the center of the top row of squares.
Knit 16 rows.
Row 17: K 4, bind off 4, Knit 4.
Row 18: K4, cast on 4, Knit 4. Buttonhole completed.
Rows 19-22: Knit.
Row 23: K2tog across. 6 stitches on needle.
Row 24: Knit.
Row 25: K 2 tog across. 3 stitches on needle.
Row 26: Knit.
Bind off.
Felt bag per your yarn instructions. Dry thoroughly.
Sew button on outside of bag to correspond with buttonhole in button flap.
Sew one craft ring to each side of bag, placing ring against ring tabs, folding ring tab over edge of ring, and sewing edge of ring tab to inside of bag.
This pattern is offered for personal, non-commercial use only. Items made from this pattern may not be sold without the express written consent of the author. This pattern and the text and photos contained within, may not be copied or reproduced for any purpose other than personal use. Copyright 2008 Yvonne Senecal.
Despite the fact that I have comments enabled, in order to comment you need to actually click on the title of this (or any other) post. Sorry!
Try on some lace and make a fashion statement with this soft and lacy little shoulder shawl
Materials: Laceweight yarn, 440 yards (I used Knitpicks Alpaca Cloud)
Size 5 knitting needles
2 stitch markers
Size: Approximately 50 inches wide by 27 inches deep, including border.
Gauge: Approximately34 stitches x 40 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch, unblocked, but exact gauge really isn’t crucial.
Note: Beginning with row 2, slip first stitch of each row as if to purl. This is an important step, as this will create a clearly-visible edge of chain stitches you’ll use when you pick up the border stitches.
Abbreviations:
Psoy = Pass knit st on right needle over YO.
PM = place marker
SM = slip marker
K2tog = knit two together
YO = yarn over
Kfb = Knit in front and back of stitch
M1 = Make one stitch by lifting horizontal strand between needles. Place on left needle and knit into the back of it.
Cast on 2 stitches.
Row 1: Knit into front and back of each stitch. (4 st)
Row 2: Sl 1, K3.
Row 3: Sl1, (Kfb next st)twice; K1. (6st)
Row 4: Sl 1, K1, purl across to last 2 st, K2.
Row 5: Sl1, Kfb next st, K2, Kfb next st, K1. (8 st)
Row 6: Sl 1, K1, purl across to last 2 st. K2..
Row 7: Sl1, Kfb next st, K4, Kfb next st, K1. (10 st)
Row 8: Sl 1, K1, purl across to last 2 st. K 2.
Row 9: Sl1, Kfb next st, K6, Kfb next st, K1. (12 st)
Row 10: Sl1, K1, purl across to last 2 st. K2.
Row 11: Sl1, Kfb next st,, K8, Kfb next st,, K1. (14 st)
Row 12: Sl1, K1, purl across to last 2 st, K2.
Row 13: Sl1, Kfb next st, K10, Kfb next st, K1. (16 st)
Row 14: Sl1, K1, purl across to last 2 st,, K2.
Row 15: (right side)Sl1, Kfb next st. PM. Knit across to last 2 st.. PM. Kfb next st. K1. (3 stitches outside markers on each side)
Row 16: (wrong side)Sl 1, K1, P1. SM. Purl across to marker. SM. P1,K2.
Row 17: Sl1, Kfb next st. K1. SM. (K2 tog)twice. (Yo, K1)four times. (K2tog) twice. SM. K1. Kfb next st, K1. (4 stitches outside markers on each side)
Row 18: Sl 1, K1, P2.. SM. Purl across to marker. SM. P2, K2.
Row 19: Sl1, Kfb next st. K2. SM. Knit across to marker. SM. K2. Kfb next st, K1. (5 stitches outside markers on each side)
Row 20: Sl 1, K1, P3. SM. Purl across to marker. SM. P3, K2.
Row 21: Sl1, Kfb next st. K3. SM. (K2 tog)twice. (Yo, K1)four times. (K2tog) twice. SM. K3. Kfb next st, K1. (6 stitches outside markers on each side)
Row 22: Sl 1, K1, P4. SM. Purl across to marker. SM. P4, K2.
Row 23: Sl1, Kfb next st. K4. SM. Knit across to next marker. SM. K4. Kfb next st, K1. (7 stitches outside markers on each side)
Row 24: Sl 1, K1, P5. SM. Purl across to marker. SM. P5, K2.
Row25: Sl1, Kfb next st. K5. SM. (K2 tog)twice. (Yo, K1)four times. (K2tog) twice. SM. K5. Kfb next st, K1. (8 stitches outside markers on each side)
Row 26: Sl 1, K1, P6. Remove marker. Purl across to marker. Remove marker. P6, K2.
Row 27: (right side)Sl1, Kfb next st. PM. Knit across to last 2 st. PM. Kfb next st. K1. (3 stitches outside markers on each side)
Row 28: (wrong side)Sl 1, K1, P1. SM. Purl across to marker. SM. P1,K2.
Row 29: Sl1, Kfb next st. K1. SM. (K2 tog)twice. *(Yo, K1)four times. (K2tog) four times. * Repeat from * to * across to 4 st before marker. (K2tog) twice. SM. K1. Kfb next st, K1. (4 stitches outside markers on each side)
Row 30: Sl 1, K1, P2.. SM. Purl across to marker. SM. P2, K2.
Row 31: Sl1, Kfb next st. K2. SM. Knit across to marker. SM. K2. Kfb next st, K1. (5 stitches outside markers on each side)
Row 32: Sl 1, K1, P3. SM. Purl across to marker. SM. P3, K2.
Row 33: Sl1, Kfb next st. K3. SM. (K2 tog)twice. *(Yo, K1)four times. (K2tog) four times. * Repeat from * to * across to 4 st. before marker. (K2tog) twice. SM. K3. Kfb next st, K1. (6 stitches outside markers on each side)
Row 34: Sl 1, K1, P4. SM. Purl across to marker. SM. P4, K2.
Row 35: Sl1, Kfb next st. K4. SM. Knit across to next marker. SM. K4. Kfb next st, K1. (7 stitches outside markers on each side)
Row 36: Sl 1, K1, P5. SM. Purl across to marker. SM. P5, K2.
Row37: Sl1, Kfb next st. K5. SM. (K2 tog)twice. *(Yo, K1)four times. (K2tog) four times. * Repeat from * to * across to 4 st before marker. (K2tog) twice. SM. K5. Kfb next st, K1. (8 stitches outside markers on each side)
Row 38: Sl 1, K1, P6. Remove marker. Purl across to marker. Remove marker. P6, K2.
Repeat rows 27-38 eight more times, then rows 27-37 once more. You will now have 148 stitches total.
Last row: (wrong side) Knit across, removing markers.
Bind off as follows: (K2 tog. Place resulting stitch back on left needle) across. When just one stitch remains on needle, do not cut yarn.
Border: Turn shawl such that right side is facing and left side of shawl is up. All along this edge, you will see a line of “chains.” Pick up border stitches as follows: Insert needle in front loop of first “chain”, pick up a stitch and knit it. Insert needle in back loop of same “chain”, pick up a stitch and knit it. In this manner, pick up a total of 146 stitches along left edge. (147 stitches now on needle). Pick up stitches in same manner moving upward along right edge of shawl, and pick up and knit 146 stitches along right edge. (293 stitches on needle). NOTE: Do NOT pick up stitches in any other manner. Do not knit in front and back of each chain, for instance; do not pick up one stitch, yo, etc. If you pick up the border stitches any other way, the border will fall apart when you work the bind off/unravel row.
Note: Now, do not slip first stitch each row any longer.
Bind off as follows: *(K2 tog, place resulting stitch back on left needle) two times. K2 tog once more. Yo, psoy. Drop next st on left needle. Place st on right needle onto left needle.* Repeat from * to * across, ending with (K2 tog, place resulting stitch back on left needle) three times. Cut yarn and fasten off.
Here’s the magical fun part:
Where you dropped each st while working bind-off, unravel this stitch all the way down to the edge of the border.
Block shawl to finished measurements, pinning out scallops.
This pattern is offered for personal, non-commercial use only. Items made from this pattern may not be sold without the express written consent of the author.
This pattern and the text and photos contained within, may not be copied or reproduced for any purpose other than personal use. Copyright 2008 Yvonne Senecal.
Despite the fact that I have comments enabled, in order to comment you need to actually click on the title of this (or any other) post. Sorry!
Row 23: Sl 1, K1. (Yo, K1) twice. (K2tog) four times. (Yo, K1) four times. (K2tog) four times. (Yo, K1) twice. K2.
Row 24: Repeat row 22.
Rows 25-32: Repeat rows 21-24 two times.
Rows 33-36: Sl 1, knit across. (As rows 1-4).
Repeat rows 5-36 eleven times.
Bind off.
Block scarf to combat the deadly, dreaded curl.
This pattern is offered for personal, non-commercial use only. Items made from this pattern may not be sold without the express written consent of the author. This pattern and the text and photos contained within, may not be copied or reproduced for any purpose other than personal use. Copyright 2008 Yvonne Senecal.
Despite the fact that I have comments enabled, in order to comment you need to actually click on the title of this (or any other) post. Sorry!
Do you know a baby for whom you want to knit something cute and useful? Try this blanket. The main body of the blanket is warm and squishy.The border is worked in the round with mitered corners, finishing off with a bright rolled edge. This one has the makings of becoming THE blankie a child will hold close and drag around for years!Personalize it by making it in the colors YOU choose, to match the nursery/gender of the special little one for whom you're knitting it.
Finished size: Approximately 36 inches square
Gauge:19stitches and 26 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
Materials:
Size 7 knitting needles, 29-inch and 40-inch circulars
Worsted weight yarn: 16 ounces color A, and 197 yards each of colors B and C
I used Lion Brand Pound of Love in Denim; Lion Brand Wool-Ease in Fisherman and Red Sprinkles; one skein of each.
Four stitch markers (one of a different color)
Blanket:
Note: For main body (blue center) of afghan, slip first stitch of each row as if to purl.
With Color A and 29-inch circular needle, cast on 132 stitches. Circular needle is used to accommodate large number of stitches; work back and forth in rows for main body of blanket.
Row 1: Slip 1, K across.
Row 2: Slip 1, K across.
Row 3: Slip 1, (K1, P1) to last stitch; K1.
Row 4: As row 3.
Repeat Row 1-4 47 more times.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 once.
Begin Border:
Do not cut color A. Pick up Color B.
Round 1 (RS): Kfb first st; K 130, Kfb last st; place marker. Do not turn. Along left edge, pick up 96 stitches, Kfb in first and last of these; place marker. Along cast-on edge, pick up and knit 132 stitches, Kfb in each of these. Place marker. Along right side edge, pick up and knit 96 stitches and Kfb in first and last of these. Place marker of another color to mark beginning of round and join.
Rnd 2:K around with color B, slipping markers.
Rnd 3:Drop color B. Pick up Color A. Kfb first stitch, (K across to stitch before marker, Kfb this stitch, slip marker, Kfb next st) around, ending with Kfb last stitch.
Rnd 4: K around with Color A, slipping markers.
Rnd 5: With Color B, K around increasing in stitches before and after each marker.
Rnd 6: With B, K around.
Rnd 7: With Color A, K around increasing in stitches before and after each marker.
Rnd 8: With A, K around.
Rnds 10-18: Continue as established, working two rows of each color and ending with two rows Color B. Cut color B.
Rnd 19: With Color A, knit around increasing in stitches before and after markers.
Rnd 20: Purl around, slipping markers.
Rnd 21: As Rnd 19.
Rnd 22: As Rnd 20.
Rnd 23: As Rnd 19.
Rnd 24: As Rnd 20.
Rnd 25: As Rnd 19.
Rnd 26: As Rnd 20.
Cut Color A.
Final Border: Attach Color C.
Rnd 1: With C, knit around increasing in each stitch before and after markers.
Rnd 2: With C, knit around.
Repeat Rnds 1 and 2three more times. Bind off loosely.
Weave in ends.
Edge Detail
Corner Detail
This pattern is offered for personal, non-commercial use only. Items made from this pattern may not be sold without the express written consent of the author. This pattern and the text and photos contained within, may not be copied or reproduced for any purpose other than personal use. Copyright 2008 Yvonne Senecal.
Despite the fact that I have comments enabled, in order to comment you need to actually click on the title of this (or any other) post. Sorry!
You can make a pair of these in a couple of evenings. They’re great for wearing to bed on a cold night, and there are no heels to fuss with. They make great gifts for just about anyone. You can make an everyday or kid-friendly version with a washable yarn or yarn blend. You can think about making a special, lavish pair with cashmere for someone special, too! Use up the oddments in your stash to make the cuffs and/or toes different colors. Let your imagination be your guide. These are intended to fit in a more "slouchy" way than socks.This pattern is offered in two versions: worked flat or worked in the round!
Difficulty Level: Intermediate
Size: Women’s S (5-6), M (7-8), L (9-10)
Directions written for size small. Instructions for larger sizes are in parentheses.If using different colors for cuffs and/or toes, change colors at row six and at beginning of toe shaping.
Materials: Worsted weight yarn, total 185 yards of the color(s) of your choice
Knitting needles sizes 5 and 7
Tapestry needle
1 stitch marker (2 stitch markers for circular version, in two different colors)
Gauge: On larger needles,18 st and 24 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch.
***NOTE!! Photo shows one version with an optional rolled cuff.See notes in flat and circular versions regarding this.
Abbreviations: SSK (slip one stitch as if to knit; slip next stitch as if to purl; insert tip of left needle through front of both stitches and knit together)
Note: Slip the first stitch of every row as if to purl. This will result in an edge of easily visible V-shaped chain stitches.
With smaller needles, cast on 44 (46, 48) stitches (or begin with optional rolled cuff as above).
Row 1-5: Slip 1, *K1, P1* across. End K1. ***Note: If you made the optional rolled cuff and are now changing colors to make the ribbed portion of the cuff, round 1 is to be knit only. Continue with rounds 2-5 in K1, P1 ribbing. This is to avoid seeing the two colors in the transition row.
Change to larger needles.
Row 6 (RS): Slip 1, K across.
Row 7: Slip 1, K across.
Row 8: Slip 1. *K1, P1* across. End K1.
Row 9: Repeat row 8.
Repeat rows 6-9 11 (13, 15) times. Repeat Rows 6 and 7 once, placing marker after stitch 22(23, 24).
Toe Shaping
Row 1 (RS): SSK. K to 2 stitches before marker, K 2 tog. Slip marker. SSK. K across to last 2 stitches. K 2 tog.
Row 2: Slip 1, purl to last stitch, slip last stitch.
Fold in half with wrong sides together. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail. Graft toe stitches using kitchener stitch. Do not cut yarn. With same yarn, sew side seam invisibly. For the toe section, seam with mattress stitch. For the main body and cuff section, seam side to side, one stitch at a time as follows: Insert yarn needle from left to right through both strands of the firstV-shaped stitch on the left side, then from right to left through both strands of the firstV-shaped stitch on the right side. Continue in this manner, tightening the seam intermittently all the way to the last two cuff edge stitches. Take care not to pull so tightly that the seam puckers. This seam cannot be seen or felt on the inside or the outside. Fasten off. Weave in ends.
Note: The particular method for working in the round (double-pointed needles;two circular needles; magic loop method) is not given. This is left to your discretion/preference. Note that because there are no seams, there are 2 fewer stitches in this version (no selvedge).
With smaller needles, cast on 42 (44, 46) stitches. Place marker and join for circular knitting (or begin with optional rolled cuff as above).
Rounds 1-5:K1, P1 around. ***Note: If you made the optional rolled cuff and are now changing colors to make the ribbed portion of the cuff, round 1 is to be knit only. Continue with rounds 2-5 in K1, P1 ribbing. This is to avoid seeing the two colors in the transition row.
Round 1 : SSK. K to 2 stitches before marker, K 2 tog. Slip marker. SSK. K across to last 2 stitches. K 2 tog.
Round 2:Purl, slipping markers.
Rounds 3-8: Repeat rounds 1 and 2 three more times. Leave remaining stitches unworked, with half of the stitches on each of two double-pointed needles.
Finishing
Using markers as a guide for indicating sides, graft toe stitches using kitchener stitch. Fasten off. Weave in ends.
Note: Though only women’s sizes are given here, you can easily adapt this pattern for babies, smaller children and even men. For much smaller bed peds, cast on a fewer number of stitches; any even number that will result in the measurement you need in your gauge. Repeat the main body (the rows between the cuff and toe shaping) for fewer repeats. For men, cast on more stitches; any even number that will result in the measurement you need in your gauge, and work the main body for more repeats. Incidentally, this is a great pattern to use for thumbless mittens for babies, too! Just make a bed ped the size of the baby’s hand.
For longer bed socks, just make the section between the cuff and the toe shaping as long as desired (tube socks). Feel free to use your imagination. Make stripes. Hold a strand of mohair or eyelash yarn with your main yarn for fluffy bed peds, or make just the cuffs and/or toes furry. Have fun!
This pattern is offered for personal, non-commercial use only. Items made from this pattern may not be sold without the express written consent of the author. This pattern and the text and photos contained within, may not be copied or reproduced for any purpose other than personal use. Copyright 2008 Yvonne Senecal.
Despite the fact that I have comments enabled, in order to comment you need to actually click on the title of this (or any other) post. Sorry!
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